The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.

"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a fence on

Sarah Taylor
Sarah Taylor

A seasoned gaming journalist with a passion for exploring indie titles and sharing insights on the latest industry trends.